Archive for the ‘Diptyque’ Tag

30 Days of Scent – Day Twenty-Five – 34 boulevard Saint Germain by Diptyque   Leave a comment

Last Tuesday (12 Jan 2016), I wore 34 boulevard Saint Germain eau de toilette by Diptyque.  It is a decant I bought from The Perfumed Court. lists the main accords of 34 boulevard Saint Germain as woody, warm spicy, aromatic, green, floral, and balsamic.  Their description of this scent states that it was “…launched 2011 to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the house, named after the street of the first Diptyque boutique. Innovative and complex, this fragrance features a chypre “backbone” and the base of woods and balms.

Top notes: blackcurrant, green leaves, fir leaf, citruses, pink pepper, cardamom, cloves and cinnamon. Heart: rose, geranium, tuberose, iris and violet. Base: woods, resins, balsams and eucalyptus.

34 boulevard Saint Germain is part of the “34 Collection” at Diptyque, along with l’Eau du Trente-Quatre, and Olivier Pescheux created both of them.  He’s also done a number of other fragrances for Diptyque and other houses, none of which I’ve worn…and my reaction to 34 boulevard Saint Germain is not likely to push me in the direction of seeking out his other scents even though I know two scents are not a majority.

I guess I could try Eau Mage…although it’s likely I’ll be eaten by the patchouli.  Okay, maybe Opôné with its tobacco and leather with rose…

I might need to stick to simpler Diptyque scents than these, because I get the same discomfort with 34 boulevard Saint Germain that I get with l’Eau du Trente-Quatre, and I so wanted both scents to work because the descriptions feel right.  If anything, the chypre “backbone” in 34 boulevard Saint Germain should make it more interesting and complicated, but all I get is a sharpness that overcomes any of the nuances meant to exist through such a combination of notes.  I suspect that this is another scent that will be genius on the right person, and I am not that person.

Thank goodness for decants, eh?

30 Days of Scent – Day Sixteen – L’Ombre dans L’Eau by Diptyque   Leave a comment

Last Tuesday, I wore L’Ombre dans L’Eau by Diptyque.  It’s a decant I received from a reader, along with a number of other Diptyque fragrances, and it came from The Perfumed Court. lists the main accords of L’Ombre dans L’Eau as green, aromatic, fruity, rose, and soft spicy.  Their description of this scent states that “L’Ombre Dans L’Eau (“Shadow in the water”) is a female fragrance from 1983, based on the unusual and beautiful harmony of black currant leaf and Bulgarian rose, which blend perfectly together. This perfume was created by Serge Kalouguine, a famous French perfumer who dedicated 30 years of his life to the house of Fragonard…

I wish L’Ombre dans L’Eau smelled like its description – rose with black currant leaf sounds like a lovely, if heady, combination.  Unfortunately, this scent leaves much to be desired – it smells like a quintessential 80s department store and much as I loved shopping with my friends, we almost never stuck around the perfume counters in Strawbridge’s (formerly Strawbridge & Clothier) for exactly this reason.

(I also want to point out here that the demise of Strawbridge’s is exactly why I hate Macy’s and refuse to shop there…and I suspect there are Marshall Field’s fans out there who agree with me.  But, I digress.)

On me, L’Ombre dans L’Eau is all aromatic and no floral, despite the manufacturer’s description of what this scent is supposed to be.  I get no greenery, and no rose, although there is a hint of rising sap among the other notes.  Whatever is in the base takes hold of my skin and doesn’t let go…but as Diptyque hasn’t cancelled it I can only assume that there are people out there who get from it the thing I don’t, and that there are enough of them to make production profitable.

30 Days of Scent – Day Three – L’Eau du Trente-Quatre by Diptyque   1 comment

Today, I am wearing L’Eau du Trente-Quatre by Diptyque.  It’s a decant that someone sent me back when I first started the 30 Days of Scent series, and until I put it on again today I was surprised that it was waiting in my “To Be Reviewed” case. lists the main accords of L’Eau du Trente-Quatre as citrus, aromatic, fresh spicy, woody, herbal, and warm spicy.  Aside from the name of this scent being spelt completely incorrectly (they call it Eau de 34, which made it difficult for me to find), the overview on the site is not bad at all: “…The nose behind this fragrance is Olivier Pescheux. Top notes are bitter orange, lemon, verbena, grapefruit, lavender, juniper berries, nutmeg, cinammon (sic) and birch leaf; middle notes are geranium and tuberose; base notes are cedar, patchouli, incense, labdanum, and moss.

(And…there’s a spelling error in the overview as well.  I’m not sure what the etiquette is about letting someone know that there are errors in the review they wrote…so I think I’ll not mention it anywhere but here until someone tells me it is appropriate.)

L’Eau du Trente-Quatre is part of Diptyque’s 34 Collection and it is not my glass of champagne, largely because of the base notes.  The top and middle notes are not enough to make up for the fact that some of the base notes go weird on me in certain combinations.  For instance, cedar works some of the time, but not with most resinous materials.  Patchouli is usually awful on me, but I did find a scent at some point where it didn’t go all wonky.  Moss is usually not a problem, but it apparently is in L’Eau du Trente-Quatre.  Fragrances like this one make me want to experiment with mixing things together to see what happens…as long as they aren’t on my own skin.

I think I’m going to see if anyone wants to take this decant off my hands.  I’m sure it could be lovely on someone else, but it is just going to get tossed if it stays here.

L’Eau du Trente-Quatre by Diptyque

30 Days of Scent – Day Twenty-Six – Eau Rose by Diptyque   Leave a comment

Yesterday, I wore Eau Rose eau de toilette by Diptyque.  It was part of the package of decants sent to me by an anonymous reader. lists the main accords of Eau Rose as rose, fruity, fresh spicy, aromatic, woody, and citrus.  The description on Fragrantica states:

“Eau Rose by Diptyque is a Floral Fruity fragrance for women. This is a new fragrance. Eau Rose was launched in 2012. Top notes are bergamot, black currant and litchi; middle notes are jasmine, geranium and rose; base notes are musk, virginia (sic) cedar and white honey.”

Diptyque notes that Eau Rose was “…conceived to stand out as a genuine infusion of roses. Its olfactory composition is designed to celebrate the multiple aromas of the flower in its natural state, as it blossoms over time...”  This is evident as soon as the bottle is opened – the scent of fresh, blooming roses wafts out and engulfs the person holding it.  It’s the first rose scent I’ve experienced that actually smells like roses – Eau Rose is not some conceptualized vision of what a rose should smell like, but an actual successful replica.

I know there are other notes present, according to Fragrantica and to Diptyque, but I can’t smell them.  This scent is rose, rose, rose, ROSE with an affect effect of, well, rose.  The only problem I had with wearing it was how quickly it faded…not unlike the scent of cut roses in a vase.  I had to reapply twice during the day, which I almost never have to do.

I loved this scent, and I am so glad I was able to try it out.  At $98 for the 100 mL bottle of EDT, though, I really expect a longer lasting fragrance – two hours from initial dab/spritz to complete fade is a little too short for me.

30 Days of Scent – Day Twenty-One – Do Son by Diptyque   Leave a comment

Today, I am wearing Do Son eau de parfum by Diptyque.  I received a decant of this as a gift from a reader. lists the main accords as white floral, tuberose, animalic, rose, balsamic, and musky.  Their description of Do Son says:

“Do Son by Diptyque is a Floral fragrance for women. Do Son was launched in 2005. The nose behind this fragrance is Fabrice Pellegrin. Top notes are african orange flower, rose and iris; middle notes are tuberose and pink pepper; base notes are benzoin and musk”

Interestingly enough, the description from Diptyque disagrees:

“Tuberose asserts itself, expressing all its sunny, hazy, creamy, indolent seductiveness. Anyone with blood in their veins will succumb to the irresistible temptation of this insolently seductive white flower…”

Before putting it on this morning, I’d never smelled Do Son, and I deliberately didn’t look up any information about it until I was already wearing it.  In fact, I tried to guess the accords from smelling it on me…and I was off.  WAY off.  I got the floral piece (although I was thinking of honeysuckle rather than tuberose) and the animalic bit, but I also thought salty and green.  Officially?  There’s no salt element and no green element, unless you consider that maybe the tuberose includes stem and leaf?

I get no orange flower and no iris and no pink pepper.  There’s a hint of musk…I think?…but it seems more like a white musk than anything else.  I’m now thinking I need to go back and smell it out of the decant directly to see if I can get any of the other notes.

On me, Do Son is honeysuckle (tuberose?) and salt – almost like someone tried to transplant their tangled garden from a home in the suburbs to a seaside community.  I like it – it fits in with the type of scents that generally work for me – despite it bearing no resemblance to the descriptions that are meant to help us find a scent.

Of course, it’s likely that my skin is what’s bending Do Son out of shape.

30 Days of Scent – Day Three – Olène by Diptyque   Leave a comment

Today, I’m wearing Olène eau de toilette by Diptyque.  This is a scent I picked up as a decant from The Perfumed Court.

(I’d like to take two second here to recommend trying scents by decant (or by spray at the department store) before buying a full bottle.  I’ve ended up saving so much money in the long run this way.) lists the main accords for Olène as white floral, floral, green, yellow floral, fresh, and animalic.  Their description reads:

“…Olène by Diptyque is a Floral fragrance for women. Olène was launched in 1988. The nose behind this fragrance is Serge Kalouguine. Top notes are narcissus and honeysuckle; middle notes are wisteria and jasmine; base notes are green notes and white flowers…”

In order to give as much information as possible about this scent, I’m also going to quote Diptyque’s own description:

“…Venice, with its narrow streets, palaces of a thousand splendors, fragrant hidden gardens, alfresco dining at nightfall under the shelter of a pergola. A place where time simply ceases…It is best explored on foot, on unforgettable strolls, where each step echoes an aromatic accord. Venice, a city to inhale deeply: here, a thick cluster of wisteria; there, tender honeysuckle, further on, sensual jasmine and elegant and mysterious narcissus. Olène conjures the mysterious depths of twilight dotted with the subtle, starry glow of dainty white flowers…”

Yes, the above description is flowery and, really, that’s how I would describe Olène.  It is almost hyper-floral and, on me, smells of honeysuckle and jasmine.  I don’t get the narcissus notes as much, but the base is very sensual.

Olène rocks.  Seriously.  It is heady without being too “in your face”, and conjures up memories of summer evenings with the honeysuckle in bloom mixed with the scent of the dragon pearl jasmine tea I sometimes drink.  I like it so much that I’m now considering picking up decants of other scents by Serge Kalouguine.

(By all means, let’s spend more money!!!!)

If you’ve not tried Olène before, I recommend picking up a sample (or a decant) and trying it for yourself.  There’s a reason it’s been in production since 1988.